How Belfast, Medellin, Naples, Glasgow and Sarajevo got their groove back
Second-chance cities that were once no-go zones prove well worth a visit. Here's how they turned themselves around, and why you should visit.
by
Ute Junker
Matthew McConaughey isn't the only one who knows how to
stage a comeback. These five cities were once tarnished by grime or
crime, by sprawling slums or roads piled high with rubbish. After major
makeovers, they have become popular destinations, their dark histories
giving them an added edge.
What changed Although Bosnia's economy remains in dire straits, funds from the European Union and other donors have helped rebuild the city centre. Its distinctive mosaic of domed Ottoman buildings and Austro-Hungarian belle epoque now looks much as it did before the war, if you let your eyes glide past the bullet holes scarring many surfaces.
Sarajevo, Bosnia
As it was This multicultural city was all but destroyed in a three-year siege during the Balkans War. The final toll included almost 14,000 dead, and more than 3000 listed monuments destroyed.What changed Although Bosnia's economy remains in dire straits, funds from the European Union and other donors have helped rebuild the city centre. Its distinctive mosaic of domed Ottoman buildings and Austro-Hungarian belle epoque now looks much as it did before the war, if you let your eyes glide past the bullet holes scarring many surfaces.
What to do Many
visitors are surprised by the city's lovely setting. Nestled in a green
valley surrounded by snowcapped mountains (which the Serbian army used
to devastating advantage), the area offers great hiking and skiing. In
the city itself, the old Ottoman bazaar – where goods from jewellery to
shoes are still handmade – is a must. So is a visit to the Tunnel
Museum, which offers a harrowing insight into the war years. One
unexpected highlight: the city's diverse eateries, where both short
blacks and hookah pipes are on the menu.
Where to stay With just 19 rooms, the City Boutique Hotel offers personalised service, a central Old Town location and a roof terrace.
sarajevo-tourism.com
Where to stay With just 19 rooms, the City Boutique Hotel offers personalised service, a central Old Town location and a roof terrace.
sarajevo-tourism.com
Belfast, Ireland
As it was Along
with Beirut, Baghdad and Bosnia, Belfast was a key member of the B
squad: wretched cities torn apart by war. Belfast's decades of sectarian
conflict made the city both dangerous and downbeat.
What changed Talk about a Hollywood happy ending. A year before the Good Friday Agreement finally brought peace to Northern Ireland, a little movie called Titanic reignited interest in the world's most famous ship, which was built in Belfast. The city was clever enough to invest heavily in Titanic attractions before the 2012 anniversary of the disaster, an event which served as a showcase for the new Belfast.
What to do The Titanic Quarter remains a must-see, with innovative displays that let you explore the ship's rooms across all classes, as well as footage of the submerged wreckage. Also worth a visit is the Ulster Museum, where displays include a 2500-year-old Egyptian mummy and the monumental Edmontosaurus dinosaur. A tour of Belfast's once war-torn neighbourhoods, The Falls Road and Shankill Road, is a must. And don't forget to check out one or two of Belfast's welcoming pubs.
Where to stay In the happening Cathedral Quarter, the Merchant Hotel is an ornate Victorian gem. Book the in-house Rolls-Royce Phantom to enjoy a day tour complete with picnic.
What changed Talk about a Hollywood happy ending. A year before the Good Friday Agreement finally brought peace to Northern Ireland, a little movie called Titanic reignited interest in the world's most famous ship, which was built in Belfast. The city was clever enough to invest heavily in Titanic attractions before the 2012 anniversary of the disaster, an event which served as a showcase for the new Belfast.
What to do The Titanic Quarter remains a must-see, with innovative displays that let you explore the ship's rooms across all classes, as well as footage of the submerged wreckage. Also worth a visit is the Ulster Museum, where displays include a 2500-year-old Egyptian mummy and the monumental Edmontosaurus dinosaur. A tour of Belfast's once war-torn neighbourhoods, The Falls Road and Shankill Road, is a must. And don't forget to check out one or two of Belfast's welcoming pubs.
Where to stay In the happening Cathedral Quarter, the Merchant Hotel is an ornate Victorian gem. Book the in-house Rolls-Royce Phantom to enjoy a day tour complete with picnic.
visit-belfast.com
What changed Following the end of Colombia's drug wars, a series of energetic mayors took radical steps to remake the city. An efficient metro now connects rich and poor neighbourhoods, with a cable car extension catering to the shantytowns sloping up the city's hillsides. New schools and libraries were built in the poorest parts of town, many of which have become attractions in their own right.
Medellin, Colombia
As it was During the reign of drug kingpin Pablo Escobar, Medellin won the accolade no city wants: murder capital of the world.What changed Following the end of Colombia's drug wars, a series of energetic mayors took radical steps to remake the city. An efficient metro now connects rich and poor neighbourhoods, with a cable car extension catering to the shantytowns sloping up the city's hillsides. New schools and libraries were built in the poorest parts of town, many of which have become attractions in their own right.
What to do The
yellow Turisbus, which offers four-hour tours of the city's major
sights, is a good-value way to get a feel for Medellin's diverse
neighbourhoods, which offer everything from colonial plazas to
cutting-edge architecture. Take the cable car to Santo Domingo-Savio, a
hillside shantytown that has become a tourist attraction thanks to the
eye-catching España library park. From here, it's another short ride to Parque Arví, a lovely wilderness criss-crossed by hiking trails. At nighttime, Parque Lleras is the place to go for dinner and drinks.
Where to stay The Art Hotel has a superb location in the hip Poblado district, an easy stroll to the cafes and bars of Parque Lleras.
colombia.travel
What changed Less than you might think. Although the streets are cleaner, the city is still poor and the Camorra still has a strong presence. However, Naples today feels no less dangerous than any other global metropolis.
What to do Walking the streets of Naples' shabby chic city centre is an experience in itself. Around every corner are men playing cards, women hanging out washing, impromptu religious processions redolent with frankincense. Aside from watching the street theatre, visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum, filled with treasures from Pompeii; the Capodimonte Museum, displaying works by Michelangelo, Raphael and El Greco; and tour the ancient city buried beneath Naples' streets. The city's glorious churches also have a wealth of treasures, including Caravaggio's magnificent Seven Acts of Mercy in the Pio Monte della Misericordia church, and the ornate interiors of the Gesù Nuovo church.
Where to stay Hidden away behind a serene neoclassical façade, Costantinopoli 104 is a colourful oasis in the heart of the Centro Storico.
comune.napoli.it
What changed The ugly duckling grew up. As the streetscape improved – thanks to heavy investment in the city's decaying buildings – so did the city's mood. Today, Glasgow ranks among the most welcoming cities in Europe.
What to do Glasgow was once the second city of the British Empire, and its lovingly-restored relics – from the Victorian and Edwardian houses of the buzzing Merchants Quarter to the ornate City Chambers and the atmospheric hilltop Necropolis – appeal to more than just architecture fans. The once-depressed region around the River Clyde has become the city's cultural centre, home to institutions such as the Zaha Hadid-designed Riverside Museum. Elsewhere, the eclectic Burrell Collection and Charles Rennie Mackintosh's instantly-recognisable buildings also draw visitors. If you are into music, contemporary art or food, the local scene is well worth checking out.
Where to stay Old-world elegance at its best is what you get at the West End's Hotel du Vin, a sumptuous property rich in velvet drapes and fireside lounges.
Where to stay The Art Hotel has a superb location in the hip Poblado district, an easy stroll to the cafes and bars of Parque Lleras.
colombia.travel
Naples, Italy
As it was "Mad, bad and dangerous" could have been the slogan for Italy's most notorious city. For years the poorest city in Italy was notorious for its pickpockets, its rubbish-strewn streets and the stranglehold that the Camorra crime organisation held over the city.What changed Less than you might think. Although the streets are cleaner, the city is still poor and the Camorra still has a strong presence. However, Naples today feels no less dangerous than any other global metropolis.
What to do Walking the streets of Naples' shabby chic city centre is an experience in itself. Around every corner are men playing cards, women hanging out washing, impromptu religious processions redolent with frankincense. Aside from watching the street theatre, visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum, filled with treasures from Pompeii; the Capodimonte Museum, displaying works by Michelangelo, Raphael and El Greco; and tour the ancient city buried beneath Naples' streets. The city's glorious churches also have a wealth of treasures, including Caravaggio's magnificent Seven Acts of Mercy in the Pio Monte della Misericordia church, and the ornate interiors of the Gesù Nuovo church.
Where to stay Hidden away behind a serene neoclassical façade, Costantinopoli 104 is a colourful oasis in the heart of the Centro Storico.
comune.napoli.it
Glasgow, Scotland
As it was A reputation for poverty and violence made Glasgow a non-starter for travellers, who preferred the predictable charms of its smaller sister, Edinburgh.What changed The ugly duckling grew up. As the streetscape improved – thanks to heavy investment in the city's decaying buildings – so did the city's mood. Today, Glasgow ranks among the most welcoming cities in Europe.
What to do Glasgow was once the second city of the British Empire, and its lovingly-restored relics – from the Victorian and Edwardian houses of the buzzing Merchants Quarter to the ornate City Chambers and the atmospheric hilltop Necropolis – appeal to more than just architecture fans. The once-depressed region around the River Clyde has become the city's cultural centre, home to institutions such as the Zaha Hadid-designed Riverside Museum. Elsewhere, the eclectic Burrell Collection and Charles Rennie Mackintosh's instantly-recognisable buildings also draw visitors. If you are into music, contemporary art or food, the local scene is well worth checking out.
Where to stay Old-world elegance at its best is what you get at the West End's Hotel du Vin, a sumptuous property rich in velvet drapes and fireside lounges.
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