Last night I went to bed at 11pm and didn’t wake up until
5am but then had trouble getting back to sleep finally getting up at 8am.
I left for the gym at 9:30. Because I was so early I managed to get an adn newspaper.(One article stated that Medellin has the 5th worst traffic
on the continent with LA #1, NY #3.) While I was on the biceps machine someone
started talking to me in English.Colin
is from England,
now staying in Sabaneta, and told me his problems since his bank froze his
debit cards.I did all my exercises in
an hour and 45 minutes.Coming out I saw
a large Saint Bernard lying at the top of the steps.Very lazy, very friendly.
I’ve decided to try to remember to post new photos on
Saturdays with descriptions.
Back at the apt Laura informed me that it was too early for
her to go to lunch.Instead of going to Deli Hoy I left the apt at 12:15, took a
bus to Parque Poblado, took another bus up the hill to about Calle 37 where I found
The Flip Flop Sandwich Shop open with
the same owner - Paula.I had a sloppy
joe and Coke for 14mil.I picked up a
couple brochures for a Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour and a Futbol tour.
I walked over to Vizcaya, bought 2 tickets for 3mil apiece (they
have half price tickets on Tuesdays and Wednesdays) and then texted Jose.He arrived 15 minutes later.He spent some time at the box office and then
came back with a little Cine Colombia
pail.I learned that you can get a free
Cine Colombia card and then when you purchase 30 tickets within a year you get
promoted to their Platinum card.That’s
when you get a little pail that gives you free popcorn (or maybe just free
refills), and a couple free ticket certificates.I bought a small popcorn and medium soda for
myself for 14,600 ($5).
We saw The Post
starring Meryl Streep and Tom Hanks.There
were about 3 dozen others in the theater.Afterwards, Jose helped me get my own Cine Colombia card.It wasn’t completely free, I had to put
52,000 pesos on the card.(Back at the apt
I completed the account registration.)
We had coffee one level below the theater.I learned that Jose works for Telesentinel an alarm monitoring
company.He goes out to businesses and
teaches them how to use their system.He
also likes the TV series Transparent (ABC), Scandal, Black Mirror, and Vikings
(History Channel).We walked across the
street where we caught a taxi.Jose got
out at the Starbucks close to Parque Poblado and after crawling down the Gold
Mile we arrived at the apt.
I had missed the first 15 minutes but I watched the rest of
the next 2 episodes of The Walking Dead.
Teresa (with Laura) returned and reported she’s not sure if
the prospective renter is interested or not.
My eyes were very tired but I managed to make it to 11pm
before going to bed.
T-shirt of the day: All I want for Christmas is a plane
ticket.
I slept pretty well despite getting up several times during
the night.I finally woke/got up at
7:30.
I left the apt at 8:50, quickly caught a bus outside and
listened to oldies on my Apple iPod on the way. At the Aguacatala Station 5 gringos got on my
car but it was too crowded and they were too far away for me to have a
conversation with.I thought they were
all together but 3 of them got off at the Alpujarra Station.As I got off at San Antonio I wished the gringo
a good day.I asked where he was from
and he said Minneapolis.As I walked out
of the car I said “great superbowl this year” over my shoulder. I arrived at the chess league at 9:50 and
found Jose waiting for me.
We played 2 games and I won them both.At my suggestion we walked over to Obelisco
mall for lunch.At Q’Bano (hot sandwiches) I had a personal sized BBQ rib sandwich (no
fries) with a large Coke and he had a sandwich combo for a total of 36,000
pesos ($12.50).
Back at the chess league we played 2 more games and he won
both.At one point I excused myself to
go to the restroom.Skip the next
paragraph if you’re easily offended by bathroom discussions.
In the chess league restroom I found 2 of the 3 stalls with “out
of order” signs on their doors.In the 3rd
stall there was no toilet seat (as expected).Luckily, I quickly did my business.There was also no toilet paper (as expected) but I had a travel pack
with me.I flushed the toilet and the
water power was so weak it didn’t go down.I reported to the chess league secretary that there was a problem with
the toilet.
Jose walked me to the metro station and I retraced my steps
back to Envigado.
I made a withdrawal at an ATM, paid the Direct TV bill at
$efecty, and made a deposit at Bancolombia for the gym.
I was back at the apt just after 5pm and found MT was visiting.
She looks like she’s doing pretty well but
still eats like a bird.
Teresa informed me that the guy she showed the finca to is
interested in renting it so she’s going to return with him tomorrow to show it
to his mother-in-law.Teresa says she’ll
probably leave the apt about 10:30.
My plan for tomorrow is to go to the gym early, have lunch
early, and then be at Vizcaya for the 2:10 movie.I received an email from Jose about meeting
me for the movie and I told him to meet me at Vizcaya at 2pm.
Teresa tells me that a girlfriend from years ago is visiting
from Hollandia (sp?) and they want to get together Saturday night at some bar
on Avenida 70.I told her I would go
with them for the first few hours but I’m not staying out until 3 or 4 in the
morning.
Medellín is an attractive city that draws most travellers instantly, with its natural beauty, museums, and public artwork.
‘The city is much bigger than I thought it was going to be,’ I tell the driver as we cruise along the empty mountain roads. It’s the kind of nervous small talk one has when they’re travelling around Colombia - a) on their own and b.) arriving at 1 am. ‘That’s Medellín,’ he pointed at a valley in the distance. - the most breathtaking view of Colombia’s second biggest city as it glittered silently. The rest of our 40km journey from Jose Maria Cordoba International Airport to the centre was mostly spent talking about the weather, my life, his life and the city many travellers have come to love.
Medellín by day feels more familiar and comforting, and contrary to its reputation, it's pretty safe and wealthy. High-rise buildings and palm tree-lined streets surround The Intercontinental hotel in El Poblado – an upscale residential area busy with independent boutiques, concept stores, clubs, and restaurants. The evenings here get livelier with swanky hotels and rooftop bars attracting a steady stream of tourists, expats, and young Colombians.
The Medellin skyline from The Intercontinental
Its transformation from the “most dangerous place on earth” to the bustling city of opportunities isn’t just restricted to Poblado. Colombia’s first Metro line and cable car network carry thousands of people between remote comunas and the city centre. Urban planning and infrastructure improvement projects like Biblioteca España in Santo Domingo have seen previously segregated areas turned into spaces where communities can come together.
Medellín is interesting, unpretentious and engaging and if it wasn’t on your must-see places to visit, here are 10 reasons why it should be.
1. Get the paisa experience in El Centro
Also known as downtown, this cultural and historic centre encapsulates all things paisa (people of Antioquia). From government buildings and museums to Botero sculptures and shopping streets, El Centro is best explored on foot.
Head South of Alpujarra metro station to find some of the key government buildings and the beautifully restored Antioquia train station. Three hundred pillars take centre stage in Parque de las Luces or The Lights Park – a modern art installation thought to represent the transformation of Medellín.
Brave through the crowds on Carabobo & El Hueco - downtown’s busiest shopping streets - to reach a square dedicated to Colombia’s most famous artist, Fernando Botero. Dotted around Plaza Botero are 23 disproportionate sculptures donated by the artist himself. You can see more of his paintings in the Museum of Antioquia. Also explore Parque Bolivar, Berrio metro station and the murals by artist Pedro Nel Gomez.
Metropolitan Cathedral in Santa Fe de Antioquia
2. Pablo Escobar and the historical tour
The famous web series based on the life of criminal Pablo Escobar is probably most people’s introduction to Medellín. And although the infamous drug lord shaped its history, he’s rarely spoken about in public.
The 2-hour tour talks about Escobar’s life and shows you around the apartment building where his wife and bodyguards lived, the roof where he was gunned down and his grave.
3. Be inspired by Comuna 13
What was once the city’s most notorious neighbourhood is today a platform for political and social expression. From skulls with flowers to laughing children, the graffiti here acknowledges its bloodied past while projecting a hopeful future. The most striking feature though is the orange escalators – the only barrio in the entire city to have one. Completed in 2011, these escalators were built to unite Comuna 13 – a part of the city largely neglected because of its association with drug cartels - to the rest of Medellín. It is hard to visit this place and not leave inspired.
Comuna 13, once Medellin's most notorious barrio
4. The forest is only a Metro ride away
Thirty kilometres from the centre of town is Parque Arvi – an ecological nature reserve spanning 4350 acres. Among the endless green space, there is a lake, a butterfly enclosure, and several walking trails- some of which are restricted to Spanish speakers only. Take a trip on the gondola to enjoy stunning views of the Aburrá Valley.
Barefoot Park, Parque De Los Pies Descalzos and Jardín Botánico in the centre are also green options worth exploring.
Parque Arvi nature reserve
5. Paint the town yellow in Guatapé
On the outskirts of Medellín is one of Antioquia’s best attractions, the colourful town of Guatapé. Located on the shores of a sprawling artificial lake, it’s become famous for its multi-coloured alleyways and intricately painted depictions of village life. It may be a little Disneyland-esque, but there is plenty here to keep you occupied – wander the little lanes, enjoy the sun from the square or take to the lake. Not far from the centre is La Piedra or The Rock - an enormous granite structure towering 200 meters. Brave its 700 steps, and you will be rewarded with the most magnificent views.
The trip from Medellín to Guatapé takes a couple of hours on public transport. Regular buses operate from the North bus terminal – a short walk from Caribe metro station.
Colour blocking in Guatape
6. Santa Fe de Antioquia
To the North of Medellín is Antioquia’s former capital, Santa Fe. This quaint colonial town is guaranteed to charm you with its Spanish historical cathedrals, plazas, and palaces. Grab a drink in one of the many traditional pubs on Plaza Mayor Juan de Corral. The highlight of Santa Fe, however, lies slightly outside its narrow, cobbled streets. Built on the Cauca River, Puente de Occidental is Colombia’s version (quite literally) of the Brooklyn Bridge minus the crowds and the cars. Walk to the opposite town of Olaya for better views of the bridge.
Puente de Occidente holds a resemblance to Brooklyn Bridge
7. Drink the night away in Parque Lleras
Located in the upmarket neighbourhood of El Poblado, this party hub has a selection of restaurants and bars to suit your mood every day of the week. Go bar hopping or find the perfect seat under the stars, there are many ways to enjoy a maracuya-lulo mojito here.
Food is in no short supply either; the vegetarian, vegans and meat lovers are all taken care of. Bandeja Paisa – a platter of meat, rice, beans, black pudding, avocado and fried egg – is the Antioquian specialty. For a more refined culinary experience, head to Oci.
8. Rhythm is gonna get you
Colombians know how to move and they’re not afraid to show it. Yes, dancing the salsa to 250 beats per minute might not be everyone’s idea of fun, but it’s a great way to meet new people and interact with the locals. Medellín’s oldest and most authentic bar El Eslabon Prendido is a salsa lover’s dream, especially on Tuesdays when a live band replaces the DJ deck.
9. Shopping
From coffee beans to aguardiente, all of Colombia’s finest is available here. The authentic sombrero vueltiao, hand-woven mochila bags, miniature Botero sculptures and plenty of little tri-colored goodies can be found at San Alejo craft market or Envigado flea market.
Medellín is also known for its flourishing textile and apparel industry, which in recent years has attracted high-minded designers. Browse through shops in the La Zona Rosa area of El Poblado to find unique and locally crafted souvenir options.
Mochila bags hang in an artisan market
10. Paragliding
This congested city may not make the most exciting paragliding backdrop but it’s a relatively inexpensive way of enjoying the stunning views of the mountains and valley. And with the sun shining most of the year, you are guaranteed to get the best video. San Felix - a small town on the outskirts of the city- offers a range of paragliding clubs to choose from.
It took me some time to get to sleep last night, maybe
because of all the Coke I drank; maybe because of the excitement of the game.
I got up several times during the night finally getting up
at 8:30.
I did all my exercises in an hour and 45 minutes.
I had Laura call Direct TV to see if the increase in my
Direct TV bill was correct. I understood
that the 238,500 pesos is just for this month and then it will be 202,000 pesos
thereafter. I had her call back and ask
if it was POSSIBLE to cancel the HBO that I added. While waiting I realized that I increased our
subscription from Gold to Platinum and that gave us HBO and FOX. If I cancelled Platinum I would lose The Walking Dead which is now on Fox.
Again I couldn’t get my headphones to work – all the sound
was coming out of my laptop speakers. If
I connect the HDMI cable from my laptop to the TV and play a youtube video I
get sound through my headphones, but otherwise not. Does anyone out there know how to switch it? Or do I really need a new set of headphones?
I watched a couple more episodes of The Walking Dead. I’m nearing
the end of season 6.
Colombia’s second and third largest cities both ranked among the top 10 South American “destinations on the rise” in travel website TripAdvisor’s Traveler’s Choice awards for 2018, with Medellín coming in first overall.
In its rankings description, TripAdvisor highlighted the security and reputation gains that Medellín has made over the past decade. “Once infamous for dangerous gangs and drug activity, Medellín has been transformed,” wrote TripAdvisor. “It’s now a vibrant destination for travelers seeking a culturally rich vacation.”
Photo: Medellín is known as the City of Eternal Spring and features stunning landscapes in central Colombia. (Credit: Jared Wade)
In addition to the oft-cited safety improvements, the tourism information provider highlighted the physical beauty of the Antioquia capital nestled into Colombia’s central Andean mountain range. The massive rock formation called Piedra de Peñol in the nearby town of Guatapé was also listed as a top travel draw.
“Medellin rises proudly from the belly of the Aburrá Valley, and its natural beauty makes a perfect setting for hiking, zip-lining, and horseback riding,” stated TripAdvisor. “Travel through lush jungle to Piedra de Peñol, then climb the 740 steps to the top — a journey within a journey that rewards you with unforgettable views.”
Cali, the third largest city in Colombia, ranked ninth among the continent’s on-the-rise destinations. The website noted the Cauca capital’s golf courses and adventure sports offerings in addition to the the salsa scene that has made Cali a dance mecca in Latin America.
“Cultural attractions in Cali reflect the area’s rich indigenous history and European influence,” wrote Trip Advisor. “Visit an archaeological park to experience tombs, ruins, and cave paintings, or celebrate with the locals at a cultural festival. Show off your salsa in a lively nightclub, then spend the next morning recovering with an aromatic cup of that famous Colombian coffee.”
The destinations on the rise list for South America is dominated by Colombia, Brazil, and Ecuador, which collectively took four of the top five spots and seven of the top 10.
The full list ranked as follows: (1) Medellín, Colombia; (2) Brasilia, Brazil; (3) Curitiba, Brazil; (4) Recife, Brazil; (5) Asuncion, Paraguay; (6) La Paz, Bolivia; (7) Salta, Argentina; (8) Guayaquil, Ecuador; (9) Cali, Colombia; and (10) Cuenca, Ecuador.
No South American locations made the overall global top 10, although Costa Rican capital San Jose did finish sixth overall to give Latin America one representative.
The full global list is as follows: (1) Ishigaki, Japan; (2) Kapaa, Hawaii; (3) Nairobi, Kenya; (4) Halifax, Canada; (5) Gdansk, Poland; (6) San Jose, Costa Rica, (7) Riga, Latvia; (8) Rovinj, Croatia; (9) Nerja, Spain; and (10) Casablanca, Morocco.
In a statement, TripAdvisor said that it selects the “destinations on the rise” based upon “year-over-year increase in positive traveler review ratings for accommodations, restaurants and attractions, and increase in search and booking interest from October 2016 to October 2017.”