© imageBROKER / Alamy
Comuna 13 from a distance.
From contemporary Colombian art to a
lush nature preserve, here’s your guide to a perfect getaway in this
creative, chill—and safe—city.
Medellín, Colombia's second largest city, used to be known for its
drug trade and astronomical murder rate. No more. Now one of the most
livable cities in South America, this city of three million might be the
greatest urban comeback story of our generation. Here are the best
places to play, eat, and explore in this amazing city.
Checking In
In the heart of El Poblan, the city's most posh district, is the
Charlee Hotel.
This 42-room boutique hotel is chock full of edgy local art. The
modern, clean-lined rooms are decorated with freshly cut flowers. Chic
locals congregate at Envy, the hotel's rooftop pool bar.
Day 1: City Center
Nestled in a valley in the central Andes, the heart of Medellín dates
back to 1616. Spanish colonists built the region's first houses in the
El Poblado district in the southern part of the city, which then began
to spread north through the Aburra Valley as it grew. Historic buildings
are dotted all around the city center, including colonial gems like La
Veracuz, La Candelaria and Saint Ignatius churches. Medellín has always
been a vibrant, ever-evolving city, and new construction rises up next
to mid-nineteenth-century Republican Period structures.
Start the morning with a dose of art...
Strike a pose at Plaza Botero, a popular square filled with 23
Rubenesque statues made by the city’s famous son, Fernando Botero.
Mingle with locals and urbanites from Bogota posing for photographs, and
pick salted mango and the iconic white hats from the meandering
vendors. Be sure to pop into the adjacent
Museo de Antioquia (10,000 pesos, or $4), which has a range of Colombian artworks.
Then refresh in a breathtaking garden...
The city’s green lung
Jardin Botánico
(free) is a 35-acre showcase of Colombia’s fauna and flora, with
hundreds of plant species grouped into themed spaces like tropical
forest, vertical garden, and an “Orquideorama,” an architecturally
dramatic space with over 400 orchid plants.
And recharge like a local...
Stop at
Restaurante Los Toldos, an old-school Colombian eatery serving typical regional cuisine—like tripe soup and the all-encompassing
bandeja paisa, an Antioquian smorgasbord of rice, egg, avocado, fried plantain, and chicharron—to the soundtrack of folk music.
© Carlos Mora / Alamy
One of the many statues in Plaza Botero.
Day 2: North & Ciudad Del Rio
Not unlike Los Angeles, Medellín is a city that has long kept the
river that runs through it well hidden. The Ciudad Del Rio (City by the
River) was a bustling manufacturing region up until the '80s-era
competition from China slowed production. Then came the reign of
notorious drug kingpin Pablo Escobar and murderous cartel, which took
over the riverside district. After Escobar's death in 1993, the area—and
Medellín at large—underwent a gentrification that is nothing short of
breathtaking. Now, the area once rife with cash and cocaine is home to
artist lofts and molecular-dining hotspots.
Speaking of art...
A former 1939-built steel mill was reborn as MAMM, or the
Modern Art Museum Medellín,
in 2009. Its staggering exhibition spaces showcase Colombia’s
contemporary artists like Beatriz González, Carlos Rojas, and the
hometown expressionist Débora Arango, with smartly curated exhibitions
such as the recent retrospective of the modern surrealist artist Alvaro
Barrios. Pick up cheeky paper wallets, art-printed clothes, and colorful
tableware at the museum’s eclectic gift shop.
And after the museum...
Bonuar is a
smart bistro serving dishes like leek-wrapped white fish and
yucca-crusted sea bass—as well as a dose of live music. Conveniently
enough, the restaurant is located MAMM's industrial-chic building.
Take a ride through the sky...
Can public transit transform a neighborhood? That’s a resounding yes in
Santo Domingo, a once-blighted area that has come alive, in part thanks
to the new ski lift–like aerial tramways. Transfer from subway to
Metrocable at Acevedo station, and admire the shiny black Biblioteca
Espana along the way. Switch to a faster, longer gondola line at Santo
Domingo—this might be the most beautiful opportunity to spend $1.80
(4,200 pesos) you’ll ever have, passing over farms and a eucalyptus and
pine to your destination, Parque Arvi.
And escape to an idyllic woodland...
The nature preserve of Parque Arvi, complete with 54 miles of trails,
offers a panoramic view of Medellín. Make sure to walk with the park’s
free naturist guide, and you might spot hidden treasures like the
world’s smallest orchid species and traces of pre-Hispanic
constructions. (Note: Though the park is generally safe, robberies have
occurred in the section closest to the city. If you want to explore that
part, go with a public tour, scheduled several times a day, and rangers
on horseback will accompany you.) The tours are in Spanish, but they're
fairly easy to follow even if you don't speak the language.
Photo by Chaney Kwak
A panoramic view of Medellín from Parque Arvi.
Day 3: San Javier, Nutibara & El Poblado
Comuna 13, otherwise known as San Javier, is another crime hotspot of
yesteryear. The up-and-coming neighborhood is seeing an influx of
visitors thanks to its brilliant street art, accessible by the new
outdoor escalators that link the steep district’s terraces. Friendly
escalator attendants, many of whom hail from the area, will gladly chat
with you about how far the neighborhood has come. Nearby, explore the
reproduction of a typical South American village atop Nutibara Hill that
rises in the middle of the city. End your final day-into-night in El
Poblado, a leafy district where the cool kids and moneyed set love to
hang out.
Take a peek at country life...
Ideally, while in Columbia, you’ll get out to the countryside to a traditional town like
Jardín
or Guatapé. But if you’re short on time, pop in and out of whitewashed
homes decorated with vintage artifacts in Pueblito Paisa. There, you’ll
get to rub shoulders with locals in a faithful, if not
kitschy-in-a-good-way .
Courtesy Carmen
Carmen, a chic restaurant in Medellín.
Sample South America's South Korean cuisine...
Head to El Poblado where globally savvy Carmen is probably the city’s
most popular restaurant among chic foreign visitors, with dishes like
braised oxtail banh mi and bacon-wrapped ostrich sirloin—and yes, Korean
tacos have made it all the way to Medellin as well. Make sure to walk
around this tony area of sidewalk cafes like Pergamino.
Then party till the break of dawn...
El Poblado has no shortage of watering holes, with the so-called Golden
Mile being the most exclusive stretch. (And don’t be shocked to find
see-and-be-seen rooftop bars and thumping clubs inside malls like the
upscale Rio Sur.) Stop by Bogota Beer Company to sample Colombia’s craft
beer selections, before hitting the lively streets of El Poblado for
your next stop (and the one after that).
