The Perfect Weekend in Medellín, Colombia
© imageBROKER / Alamy
Comuna 13 from a distance.
From contemporary Colombian art to a
lush nature preserve, here’s your guide to a perfect getaway in this
creative, chill—and safe—city.
Checking In
In the heart of El Poblan, the city's most posh district, is the Charlee Hotel. This 42-room boutique hotel is chock full of edgy local art. The modern, clean-lined rooms are decorated with freshly cut flowers. Chic locals congregate at Envy, the hotel's rooftop pool bar.Day 1: City Center
Nestled in a valley in the central Andes, the heart of Medellín dates back to 1616. Spanish colonists built the region's first houses in the El Poblado district in the southern part of the city, which then began to spread north through the Aburra Valley as it grew. Historic buildings are dotted all around the city center, including colonial gems like La Veracuz, La Candelaria and Saint Ignatius churches. Medellín has always been a vibrant, ever-evolving city, and new construction rises up next to mid-nineteenth-century Republican Period structures.Start the morning with a dose of art... Strike a pose at Plaza Botero, a popular square filled with 23 Rubenesque statues made by the city’s famous son, Fernando Botero. Mingle with locals and urbanites from Bogota posing for photographs, and pick salted mango and the iconic white hats from the meandering vendors. Be sure to pop into the adjacent Museo de Antioquia (10,000 pesos, or $4), which has a range of Colombian artworks.
Then refresh in a breathtaking garden... The city’s green lung Jardin Botánico (free) is a 35-acre showcase of Colombia’s fauna and flora, with hundreds of plant species grouped into themed spaces like tropical forest, vertical garden, and an “Orquideorama,” an architecturally dramatic space with over 400 orchid plants.
And recharge like a local... Stop at Restaurante Los Toldos, an old-school Colombian eatery serving typical regional cuisine—like tripe soup and the all-encompassing bandeja paisa, an Antioquian smorgasbord of rice, egg, avocado, fried plantain, and chicharron—to the soundtrack of folk music.
© Carlos Mora / Alamy
One of the many statues in Plaza Botero.
Day 2: North & Ciudad Del Rio
Not unlike Los Angeles, Medellín is a city that has long kept the river that runs through it well hidden. The Ciudad Del Rio (City by the River) was a bustling manufacturing region up until the '80s-era competition from China slowed production. Then came the reign of notorious drug kingpin Pablo Escobar and murderous cartel, which took over the riverside district. After Escobar's death in 1993, the area—and Medellín at large—underwent a gentrification that is nothing short of breathtaking. Now, the area once rife with cash and cocaine is home to artist lofts and molecular-dining hotspots.Speaking of art... A former 1939-built steel mill was reborn as MAMM, or the Modern Art Museum Medellín, in 2009. Its staggering exhibition spaces showcase Colombia’s contemporary artists like Beatriz González, Carlos Rojas, and the hometown expressionist Débora Arango, with smartly curated exhibitions such as the recent retrospective of the modern surrealist artist Alvaro Barrios. Pick up cheeky paper wallets, art-printed clothes, and colorful tableware at the museum’s eclectic gift shop.
And after the museum... Bonuar is a smart bistro serving dishes like leek-wrapped white fish and yucca-crusted sea bass—as well as a dose of live music. Conveniently enough, the restaurant is located MAMM's industrial-chic building.
Take a ride through the sky... Can public transit transform a neighborhood? That’s a resounding yes in Santo Domingo, a once-blighted area that has come alive, in part thanks to the new ski lift–like aerial tramways. Transfer from subway to Metrocable at Acevedo station, and admire the shiny black Biblioteca Espana along the way. Switch to a faster, longer gondola line at Santo Domingo—this might be the most beautiful opportunity to spend $1.80 (4,200 pesos) you’ll ever have, passing over farms and a eucalyptus and pine to your destination, Parque Arvi.
And escape to an idyllic woodland... The nature preserve of Parque Arvi, complete with 54 miles of trails, offers a panoramic view of Medellín. Make sure to walk with the park’s free naturist guide, and you might spot hidden treasures like the world’s smallest orchid species and traces of pre-Hispanic constructions. (Note: Though the park is generally safe, robberies have occurred in the section closest to the city. If you want to explore that part, go with a public tour, scheduled several times a day, and rangers on horseback will accompany you.) The tours are in Spanish, but they're fairly easy to follow even if you don't speak the language.
Photo by Chaney Kwak
A panoramic view of Medellín from Parque Arvi.
Day 3: San Javier, Nutibara & El Poblado
Comuna 13, otherwise known as San Javier, is another crime hotspot of yesteryear. The up-and-coming neighborhood is seeing an influx of visitors thanks to its brilliant street art, accessible by the new outdoor escalators that link the steep district’s terraces. Friendly escalator attendants, many of whom hail from the area, will gladly chat with you about how far the neighborhood has come. Nearby, explore the reproduction of a typical South American village atop Nutibara Hill that rises in the middle of the city. End your final day-into-night in El Poblado, a leafy district where the cool kids and moneyed set love to hang out.Take a peek at country life... Ideally, while in Columbia, you’ll get out to the countryside to a traditional town like Jardín or Guatapé. But if you’re short on time, pop in and out of whitewashed homes decorated with vintage artifacts in Pueblito Paisa. There, you’ll get to rub shoulders with locals in a faithful, if not kitschy-in-a-good-way .
Courtesy Carmen
Carmen, a chic restaurant in Medellín.
Then party till the break of dawn... El Poblado has no shortage of watering holes, with the so-called Golden Mile being the most exclusive stretch. (And don’t be shocked to find see-and-be-seen rooftop bars and thumping clubs inside malls like the upscale Rio Sur.) Stop by Bogota Beer Company to sample Colombia’s craft beer selections, before hitting the lively streets of El Poblado for your next stop (and the one after that).
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